Released August 15, 2012
HATS: AN ANTHOLOGY BY STEPHEN JONES
ON VIEW AT PEM SEPTEMBER 8, 2012 - FEBRUARY 3, 2013
SALEM, MA -- Explore the exuberant and varied world of millinery - from wildly plumed bonnets and silk turbans, to embroidered crowns and fanciful fascinators - with Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones on view this fall at the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM). Exuding wit and whimsy, over 250 hats created over the last 900 years have been selected for display by the British milliner to the stars, Stephen Jones, working with the V&A's fashion curator, Oriole Cullen. Hats reveals the rich artistic history, boundless creativity, and enduring fascination with the form. The exhibition is organized by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London and opens to the public on September 8, 2012.
Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones presents bold fashion statements by designers such as Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, Givenchy, Philip Treacy, and Stephen Jones alongside remarkable historic pieces and examples of pop culture headwear. The exhibition's inventive installation evokes the life cycle of the hat from the perspective of a milliner, tracing the creative process and sources of inspiration, to a hat's debut in a salon and finally as a crowning expression of an owner's personal style.
"Fashion expresses the private and public aspects of creativity in ways that very few art forms can," says Lynda Roscoe Hartigan, PEM's James B. and Mary Lou Hawkes Chief Curator. "This exhibition provides the perfect opportunity to salute fashion as a growing and engaging presence at PEM."
One of history's most trailblazing milliners, Caroline Reboux (1837-1927), was a Parisian designer closely associated with the origins of haute couture, both for clothing and hat design; she tirelessly promoted hats as an essential fashion accessory. Reboux is credited with creating original designs, such as cloches, veiled hats, and berets for women. The hat seen here, created in 1865-70 for Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, is constructed of sable fur and grosgrain ribbon. Its jaunty irreverence and spirited youthfulness strikes a remarkably modern profile even to this day.
Lacking the restraints of most forms of fashion design -- the need for neck holes, sleeves, or pant legs -- milliners possess an unparalleled degree of freedom. A milliner's inspiration may be found anywhere and everywhere, from geometry and the natural world, to exoticism and historic forms. Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) created a shoe hat in 1938 -- in collaboration with artist Salvador Dalí -- which famously became a Surrealist icon and paved the way for radical headwear designs to come. There are only two Schiaparelli shoe hats in the world, one in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's collection and the other in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Jo Gordon (b. 1968) takes the traditional structure of a 19th century mourning bonnet to extremes with her 1994 hat, Kiss of Death. The long, menacing feathers project forward over two feet in a tunnel-like brim, which virtually obscures the face. Rather than simply offering protection from the elements, this bonnet takes an aggressive and dramatic stance, distancing the wearer from the world. Comprised of satin and pheasant feathers, Kiss of Death combines modern design techniques with traditional materials found in the artist's native country of Scotland.
Stephen Jones has been described by Vogue Italia as, "the maker of the most beautiful hats in the world." An uncompromising style leader, Stephen Jones made his entrée into the London fashion scene during an explosion of street style in the late 1970s establishing a millinery salon that was patronized by everyone from rock stars to royalty. Boy George and Princess Diana were among Jones' earliest clientele, embracing his radical and idiosyncratic designs. Jones' hats have graced the heads of Marilyn Manson, Pink, The Rolling Stones, Gwen Stefani, Beyoncé Knowles, Kylie Minogue, Dita Von Teese and Madonna. No stranger to the spotlight, Jones has created some of the most memorable runway spectacles of the past quarter century through his collaborations with Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs, and John Galliano for Dior. His works have been collected both as fashion and sculptural works and are featured in the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Louvre, the Brooklyn Museum and the Fashion Institute of Technology.
HATS ABOUND AT PEM
During the exhibition run of Hats, visitors will find millinery surprises dappled throughout the museum. Over 40 hats -- spanning the 18th century to present day -- complement artworks in many galleries, lending a global perspective to the creativity of hats. An ornate kingfisher feather bridal headdress appears with PEM's Chinese art collection, while a brass and abalone inlay fireman's helmet makes a strong visual statement in the Japanese art galleries, and an Unangax hunting hat enhances PEM Native American art display. The work of four contemporary New England milliners will be featured, as will select loans from private collections, including a game-worn, autographed Red Sox baseball cap lent by Tiffany and David Ortiz.
Captioned, high-resolution publicity images are available upon request.
Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones, 2009, V&A Publishing, 128 pages, Hardcover, $39.95, available at the PEM Shop or online at www.pemshop.com
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2012
9:30 BREAKFAST | 10 REMARKS | 10:30 TOUR
RSVP to Whitney Van Dyke by Tuesday, August 28 by emailing firstname.lastname@example.org
Stephen Jones, © www.justinephotography.com; Caroline Reboux, Hat worn by the Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, About 1865, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Elsa Schiaparelli, Shoe hat, 1938, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Jo Gordon, Kiss of Death, 1994, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones is organized by the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), London, co-curated by British milliner Stephen Jones and Oriole Cullen, Curator of Modern Textiles and Fashion, V&A. This presentation has been supported in part by the East India Marine Associates of the Peabody Essex Museum. Media Partner: Magic 106.7
ABOUT THE V&A
The V&A is the world's leading museum of art and design with collections unrivalled in their scope and diversity. It was established to make works of art available to all and to inspire British designers and manufacturers. Today, the V&A's collections, which span over 2000 years of human creativity in virtually every medium and from many parts of the world, continue to intrigue, inspire and inform. The V&A has one of the largest and most comprehensive collections of fashion in the world. www.vam.ac.uk
ABOUT THE PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM
The Peabody Essex Museum presents art and culture from New England and around the world. The museum's collections are among the finest of their kind, showcasing an unrivaled spectrum of American art and architecture (including four National Historic Landmark buildings) and outstanding Asian, Asian Export, Native American, African, Oceanic, Maritime and Photography collections. In addition to its vast collections, the museum offers a vibrant schedule of changing exhibitions and a hands‐on education center. The museum campus features numerous parks, period gardens and 22 historic properties, including Yin Yu Tang, a 200‐year‐old house that is the only example of Chinese domestic architecture on display in the United States.
HOURS: Open Tuesday‐Sunday and holiday Mondays, 10 am‐5 pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day.
ADMISSION: Adults $15; seniors $13; students $11. Additional admission to Yin Yu Tang: $5. Members, youth 16 and under and residents of Salem enjoy free general admission and free admission to Yin Yu Tang.
INFO: Call 866‐745‐1876 or visit our Web site at www.pem.org