An elderly woman spins cotton into thread at a charkha, or spinning wheel, demonstrating how one of India’s most coveted exports was traditionally made. What the British considered an archaic tool became a symbol of pride for the political movement that led to Indian Independence in 1947.

Mahatma Gandhi, the transformative leader of the Indian independence movement and an icon of peaceful resistance, encouraged the people of India to produce their own homespun cloth rather than buy fabric from British suppliers. By styling himself as a simple village craftsman and employing traditional techniques as an act of resistance, he inspired the diverse populations of India to unite in a common struggle for self-rule.

So we see that rather than an industry divorced from the concerns of everyday people, by virtue of being a system that controls value and power, it has in fact affected everyday people quite deeply — and continues to.

Made It: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion showcases more than 100 works, spanning 250 years, recognizing women's often-overlooked contributions to the fashion and design industry. In the exhibition, we highlight some key moments in fashion history, a number of which are particular to New England. A short list below:

1834: Female shoe binders form a union in Lynn, Massachusetts, and demand fair wages from employers

1837: Shoe and boot manufacturers employ 18,000 women in New England

1843: Lowell Female Labor Reform Association begins public petitioning for 10-hour work day

1857: Police attack women garment workers protesting for better working conditions and higher wages in New York

1860: 3,000 workers walk off the job in New England Shoemakers Strike in Lynn, Massachusetts

1871: Mary Harris “Mother” Jones begins work as a labor organizer after her dress shop is destroyed in the Great Chicago Fire

1909: “Uprising of the 20,000” female shirtwaist makers in New York strike against sweatshop conditions

1909: First National Women’s Day, brought about by the labor actions of garment workers, is celebrated on February 28 in the U.S.

1911: Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in Manhattan kills 146 garment workers, including 123 girls and women

1912: 23,000 textile workers participate in the Bread and Roses strike begun by immigrant women in Lawrence, Massachusetts, leading to public outcry and a congressional investigation

Since a good portion of American manufacturing has moved abroad, we find these same concerns playing out in other countries. Many will remember the 2013 Rana Plaza Factory collapse in Bangladesh, which killed more than 1,100 garment workers.

Last January, while we were in Laos, I was gearing up to launch my sustainable fashion business Trued Apparel. I aimed to build the business ethically both in sourcing and production — meaning that not only did I want to use fabrics that are better for the environment, minimizing the use of polyester and other man-made textiles, but it was important to me that the value created from the business be shared with the people whose hands ultimately create the garments.

The fast fashion industry makes it standard practice to cut garment workers out of the profit equation. Workers are chronically saddled with unrealistic turnaround times to meet quick-moving fashion trends, untenable wages and, at times, toxic materials that can contribute to illness and birth defects. I highly recommend the documentary The True Cost, which we’ve screened previously at PEM, for an overview of how problematic fast fashion is.

The emerging slow fashion movement creates a shift in thinking away from speedy consumer capitalism towards mindfulness, understanding where the things we own come from, and having compassion for the people involved in their production. Another benefit of a living wage in the fashion industry is a gendered one; Over 85% of the 40 million garment workers worldwide are women, so to share value with them has the effect of empowering women in the places or countries in which you do business.

Ock Pop Tok, meaning “East Meets West” in Lao, was founded on the principles of fair trade and sustainable business practices, to bring people together through textiles to exchange knowledge and ideas.

“Weaving, which is still done primarily by village women, is often considered domestic work that is not representative of progress or economic advancement,” their website reads. “By deciding to operate on fair trade principles, specifically by providing competitive wages, opportunities for continued learning and professional development, Ock Pop Tok gives weavers the ability to earn a sustainable livelihood for their families and communities.”

In the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, classes are held daily to give tourists hands-on experience in creating their own Laotian textiles, from dyeing to weaving, to batik designs. With 49 recognized ethnic groups in Laos, there are many handicraft and textile traditions to share, and many stories to tell. Fifty Laotian weavers are employed both at the on-site facility and from their own home villages. Their wares, from throw pillow covers to wall tapestries, are sold in the Ock Pop Tok Shop in downtown Luang Prabhang. Their on-site Silk Road Cafe even provides local fare for visitors to have a bite between classes.